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expensive and difficult to bring in, the openings are shuttered against the cold with thick cloth.  It is dark and physically depressing,  but the friendliness and hospitality are bright and cheerful.

           Each passing day gains us elevation and is felt in the coolness of the night air.  Geez! It’s a hard life.  The next time a person back home complains about his living conditions, I’ll just shoot him and put him out of his perceived misery since an explanation would be worthless.

           The gift of the sewing needles again was a big hit.  She had never seen a thimble and Dawa again did the explaining.  The Sherpa people do not use the word thank you.  The giving is what is important not the receiving.  But they sure show it in their faces and this certainly thrills me.

           It has been two years since Dawa has seen his sister.  And he is a happy man.          

Water Buffalo pulls Wooden Plow Across Narrow Field

          Walking through Dawa’s homeland, off the beaten track, through the backyards, into and out of their lives like a large white apparition, little kids staring and gawking, I have found the beginning of what I came for.  It has been difficult getting here but really worth it.  To seep into the fabric of a culture without knowing the language isn’t easy, but when achieved is worth the effort.

           There are still lots of leaches because of the late monsoons, but it won’t be long till the higher elevations will eliminate these pests.  It is the wettest it has been in twenty years for this time of year and I am getting rather anxious to get it behind me.  The mountains have only peeked at me once, toying with my anticipation.

Monday 10/19

           Breakfast consists of tea, potatoes, eggs and a kind of porridge made from ground millet, with tea serving as a milk substitute.  The porridge is incredibly bland to my taste.  Not having a great fondness for tea it seemed particularly incongruous being served over the millet.  An acquired taste which I have no desire to pursue.  For dinner, last night we had what they called Nepalese bread.  At least that’s what it translated into.  A special treat for their guest of honor, me.  It is emulsified potatoes cooked on a round cast iron skillet over the open flame.  Like a thick potato pancake that is not cooked through so that it is raw and cool on the inside.  As with the steamed whole potatoes this is served hot with a side of hot sauce.

                                    
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