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ANCESTRAL VILLAGE

Sunday 10/18

           We are staying at Dawa’s sister’s house.  Dawa had asked me if we could go out of the way a bit so he could see his sister. And then since it is on the way go on to his family village. Rather than an inconvenience for myself, I saw it as a tremendous opportunity to see rural Nepal.

           We are off the main trail and to get to the house, we wandered the same tracks as the locals.  Finally, I am away from the "me’s" on the trail.

           The house is just off the trail a few yards and sits on a very narrow plot of land that drops steeply away.  Across the chasm sits another dwelling perched like an eagles nest.  The land is lush with vegetation, but here it is mostly too steep to terrace.  The family is poor.

           Her two kids are at my feet watching my pen write. Their eyes are wide and their runny noses center their round ruddy cheeks.  Few Westerners come through and I am the first to stay with them.  I offer a lot of fodder for their curious little minds.

           The house is a one story, one room affair.  Against the middle of the north wall there is the traditional open pit fire where lunch of steamed whole potatoes is cooking.  When the potatoes are ready they will be served whole with the peelings on.  The trick is to get the peelings off these small, russet style potatoes.  By placing them in the palm of the hand and placing the other hand on top, with a twist a good section of skin is removed.  Then the potato is dipped in a hot sauce.

           A small glow fights back the darkness but the days chill lingers.  Wood is conserved, as is most everything here; and, the least amount is used to do the maximum job.  Sitting next to the fire on one end of a low 8 ft. bench which stretches along the wall, I am waiting for dinner.  In front of me is a narrow rough hewn, wood table about six feet long, with a small 6" brass oil lamp casting feeble shadows around the room by it’s tiny flame. 

Dawa's Sister's Family and Myself  (See Page 18)

The master bed is on the other side of the fire and with the entry way, takes up one end of the dwelling. There is no door for the low entry, just a heavy cloth to keep out the cold.  Against the opposite wall from where I am sitting, are five large wicker bins about three and a half feet in diameter and about five feet in height. Each filled to the brim with potatoes.  For most Sherpa families, their primary food source. They also grow a sweet tuber which they feed to their cow to sweeten the milk. To my right is a simple Buddhist shrine.  The floor, as in most peasant dwellings, is packed dirt in the entry way but then here an elevated floor of rough wood planking takes over.  The roof is woven bamboo, which is water tight. The only outside light source are two small six inch squares cut into the wooden walls above the bench.  Since glass is

                                                                         
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