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Dawa scored four pounds of cheese, 10 whole raw eggs, two
bundles of noodles and a small quantity of black tea. This
should allow us to make our food stretch to the lakes, I
hope. But then it is a hasty retreat back to Lukla.
Wednesday 11/11
Some habits are good, such as making sure the role of film
is advancing. I shot 24 frames without taking a single
picture. I have had lots of camera problems, mostly my
fault. I’ll blame the altitude. We are about
three hours away from the Ponch Pokori. It is 4:00 PM
and camp is set up. It is twenty degrees and the wind is blowing a
crisp breeze. Desolation cannot describe this place adequately. |
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Our
Food Supply Setting Up Camp Around Us |
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The French decided they like our spot so they have settled in around
us. Literally, on all sides - six trekkers, eleven porters, the
Sirdar, cook, assistant cook. Mind you, I have nothing against the
French; they are wonderful people, but they have been in my soup
this whole trip. As I have been in theirs - literally! Tomorrow the
group heads for the Mingbo La and I for the Ponch Pokori.
After we leave the lakes, there are a number of ways back. We could
follow the French over the Mingbo La, using their ropes, but it is a
climbing pass, and without crampons for Dawa, it is not possible.
There is a pass from the lakes, called Lhobsta, and will put us in
the valley of the monasteries, but we are not familiar enough with
the route for Dawa to be secure. He is quite conservative.
We can go back the way we came in, and this is fine with me. There are some
shots I can retake, and so this is our plan.
We
should be in Lukla in six days and Kathmandu in eight if flights are
available and weather permitting. |
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I like being surrounded by the Sherpa guides and porters. Their good natured acceptance of whatever situation they
happen to be in is a joy.
The way they shut out the cold and deal with what we would
consider difficult conditions, with inadequate clothing,
attests to their hard constitution and mental set.
Many of the porters do not have access to the tents to sleep
in so they head for the rocks above us to find shelter. Wood
has been brought in from the Hinku, or more often, cut from
the low lying and stunted cedars, and any excess is cached for
future use by themselves or other expeditions. |
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