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From Deboche we went to Dingpoche. Dingpoche, besides having
a Monastery, is the jumping off point for the Ile Peak, which is a
trekking peak, and also Ama Dablam for those wanting a bigger
challenge! With stone homes and slate roofs it has the flavor of
an ancient land. From all angles the peaks of the Himal push the
sky.
Saturday was a trial by ordeal. Having awakened with a rip-roaring
case of diarrhea, I had at least a four hour journey ahead. As I
learned quickly, at this elevation, and with the amount of
exertion it takes to go from place to place, diarrhea saps one’s
strength in a hurry. Taking some pills and drinking lots of
liquids to counter certain dehydration, I struggled to get to Dingpoche. Dawa was worried. He expressed this worry by getting
rather tight. A client had died under his care, from high altitude
sickness, and associating my illness with that experience he
threatened to take me back if I was not feeling better by morning.
I tried to explain that it was my stomach
that
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the problem, but he wouldn’t hear it. Around two in the
afternoon I hit the sack, which worried Dawa even more,
despite my assurances that I would be just fine by morning.
All that Tea and boiled water that I had drunk to counter
the dehydration showed it’s second edge by getting me up
numerous times during the night.
I woke up with a slight headache. We are at 13,400 feet,
which explains my headache. But I am feeling much better.
I had a big breakfast and made it back down to Pangboche by
noon (12,093 feet).
A large French group, made up of three couples, has been
dogging my steps since I left Jiri. It would not be so bad,
except that when I find a nice, quiet, cozy Tea House all to
myself, and am soaking up the customs and oozing into the culture of
Nepal, here they come. It has become a joke. Last night this could
have been the French Alps. |
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We have finally gone our separate ways. The French group is headed
to Labouche for the approach to Mt. Everest and Kala Pattar, a major
trekking mountain, and I have come back down to head for Gokyo.
Today we have discussed alternate plans for the Mera La. We have met
two expeditions, one that attempted the Mingbo La, a climbing pass,
and one the Mera La. Both parties were turned back because of
inclement weather. This fall has offered the worst climbing weather
in the last twenty years. However, things seem to be improving and,
by the time we head in that direction the weather, hopefully, will
have stabilized.
If
the Mera La is not possible, then we will head back to Dawa’s
village and go over the pass and into the Hongu from there. Dawa has
not been into the Panch Pokaris (a group of Lakes) at the end of the
Hongu Khola (river): Few have, and he is not sure of the way;
however, he knows of another series of lakes that we can go to as an
alternate, further south, if necessary.
There is a Monk sitting at the end of the table. He seems to be
making a paste out of tsampa (barley). The subdued light filtered in
through the large window, light his profile in the dark interior. |
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