Next time I will know better and will make sure
that my guide, and the porters, if I hire them, have adequate clothing.
It can all be rented and would be worth the additional expense.
From now on I’ll need to be a little more careful about altitude. Altitude sickness can be a serious problem. So far the adjustment has been easy. I will see as I gain
elevation.
I
just toured the Nunnery compound a short distance from Thyangboche. We are staying close by and Dawa asked if I wanted to go in. The
place has seen few visitors being in the shadow of the more famous
monastery.
It
was built around the same time. The buildings are ancient
and unchanged. The Nunnery is small compared to the monasteries. The
building is stone and low to the ground. The roof is slate and
matches the old Mani stones leaning against the walls. The doorway
is chest high and is framed by six inch thick timbers, severely
bent from the heaviness of the roof, and the tiredness of age. There is a small stream that flows by, and a pasture where the
beasts of burden can graze. Trees shadow it and the mountains of
the Himalayans dance in the heavens above.
There are about fifteen Nuns now and they live here year around.
In another month the snow will come, up to five feet. It will be
cold. The living quarters are placed, horse shoe fashion, around
the church and are as bent with age. They are dark, drafty, frigid.
It
just doesn’t seem possible that one could lead a monastic life on
this level of deprivation and hardship. Talk about dedication to one’s beliefs. The fat cats in other religious institutions would have much to
learn. But then the monks and certainly the Lamas have it quite
good compared to the nuns. As in other male dominated
institutions, it seems, the opulence goes with the power.
Dawa took me to the doorway of the church for a private audience. This time the shoes came off. It was mandatory. As I entered, the
cold from the floor rapidly penetrated my socks. Dawa was
barefoot. Upon entering, Dawa immediately went to the alter to
pray.
It
was dark but the colors were vibrate. It is now a thousand
years ago. The old Nun, bent like the