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Looking Up At Lukla

          Dawa has just come back. Pretty much schnokered.  It’s a custom - if your glass is empty they fill it and Dawa’s glass was empty a lot. "No" does not seem to be part of the vocabulary that is used. Being the prodigal son, the rice wine or apple brandy flowed freely.  Dawa wanted us to stay a little longer and I must admit to having a couple of glasses myself.  And again, off to his grandmother’s house with the realization that this would cap it, we were here for the night.          

           The Lama of the village Gompa was at the house and he invited me up to the Monastery. It is a short walk of about twenty minutes up the cloud shrouded ridge above the village. The trail, as is most, is steep and winds it’s way through the forest canopy covered in mist.  No worry about leaches here, we are out of range. 

          The monastery complex consists of the temple and twenty seven student and monk quarters, supporting about thirty people. 

          When we arrived the Lama was in the Gompa and invited us in.  Shoes and especially leather ones are not allowed in the temples, and as I was bending down to remove my leather boots, he quickly motioned to me that it was okay to leave them on.  I still hesitated fearful of offending (damned if I do and damned if I don’t) but Dawa quickly grabbed my hand and pulled me in.

           The monastery was not large, perhaps forty feet square, with high walls which were covered with paintings and cloth of rich colors.  Wooden benches with pillows offering a place to sit were on both sides of the room. Opposite the door the alter, with lit candles was at the foot of the Buddha which towered above. Dawa having removed his shoes prostrated himself before the Buddha and offered his thanks and his prayers.  Then this kindly man, in his late fifties, with a friendly smile allowed me an audience and  chanted and played the drum and cymbal.  As his resonant voice undulated his mantras and the drum and cymbal offered the counter melody, they echoed their history off the dark walls.  Here was old Nepal, untouched by Western influence.

The Quick Way to Arrive In Lukla

                  
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