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untouched by Westerners.  A place where I would like to go next.  He showed me a jade ring hanging from his neck.  A gift from the king of Mustang for services rendered. Mustang is an autonomous region within Nepal with it’s own Monarchy.  Dawa later advised me to listen to these tales with a grain of sand.  People do seem to be essentially the same everywhere grabbing bragging rights when they can.

          The French speaking guide was very interesting and he invited me to his ancestral home, which he described, apologetically, as being small and dirty.  He lives in Paris and comes to Nepal to guide French treks.  His family home is on the way to Lukla.  However, I don’t think we’ll make it.

           Having traveled and lived abroad, he has brought back to Nepal dreams of a better future.  He wants electricity everywhere and he would like to see a cable car system installed.  He decried the lack of a radar system for Kathmandu’s airport.  And health care still does not exist much outside of Kathmandu and Pokhara.  In most cases, when a baby is born it is born at home.  When considering the sanitation of the average house, it is no wonder that infant mortality is amongst the highest in the world.  The government just does not have the resources to reach all the isolated communities.

           Today I walked through my first rhododendron forest.  Even though nothing was in bloom the sheer size of the trees were impressive.  The trees stand eight to ten feet with some going to twenty.  When they do bloom they canopy the trail in a sea of red.

            It rained today, so no view of the Himalayas, and few pictures.  My calf muscles still hurt from the constant stress of going up steep terrain.  But, I am gaining strength.  In another week I will be bounding up the trail like a young gazelle.  Ya, right!

 

Saturday 10/17

           A good start today. Calves are still very sore, but the thighs are doing better.  We are staying in a Tea House next to the Monastery.

           Most of the time we have traveled with long distance porters who are working for local communities or the government.  Seven of these are young women and one is very pretty.  We have been dogging each other’s steps for days and there is a camaraderie growing between them and myself.

           It’s the second day of rain and all the view points are clouded over.  The trail is slick, muddy, and steep with lots of red clay that suck on the boots with each step.  Over one particularly steep descent, slippery with mud and wet stones, the girls were having a difficult time.  Many of the porters at the lower elevations go barefoot; or, as in this case, wear flip-flops.  The flip-flops were not working well in the descent so they took them off and tried the barefoot approach without better results. However the heavily lugged mountain boots of mine held well and so a hand was offered to each over this particular rough spot.  They all thought it was great that a foreigner would help.  Next time I see the

  Tongue for Dinner - A Porter heads to the Village

 cute one I am going to try out the new phrase Dawa has taught me:  "tapaii di di sundar cha."  Translated "Tapaii (polite form of ‘you;  di di (‘big sister’) a form of respect; sundar (‘beautiful’); cha (‘are’);"

                             
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