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The Adventure Begins

 

          I am sleeping in the village of Jiri in the same room as the porters and my Sherpa guide.

           I cannot believe my good fortune.  He is great!  Dawa Wangchu Sherpa; thirty years old, married, with one child.  He has eight years experience as a guide and has advanced up the ranks from a porter, to assistant cook, to cook, to guide, to Sirdar.  A Sirdar is the main man.   He organizes major expeditions, both trekking and mountaineering, and carries a license by the government. His wife has grounded his climbing because of the danger (some things are the same the world over) and so he is limited to leading treks.  When I walked into the agency Sunday evening to meet Dawa for the first time, I saw a slight man with a huge smile and twinkling eyes.

             My apprehension immediately melted away, and with a firm handshake an extraordinary connection was made.  At the time that Dawa decided to be my guide he had another offer to lead a major expedition.  He chose to be with me.  Dawa did this, in large part, because of the positive experience he had with another American the previous year.  This American’s good attitude and kindness translated into my good fortune.

The Road Ends - The Adventure Begins

Cutting Millet

          The bus ride to Jiri from Kathmandu was horrendous.  I had a suspicion when a local women who’s age indicated to me that she should know, sprayed the dash of the bus with wheat at the outset of the trip. This for good luck, but evidently did not cover the twelve hours of torture that followed. The seats were made for the slight of build Nepalese.  My knees were jammed against the front seat, my butt crammed into the back. My body was wedged tight against the window with no room to wiggle.  With visions of the bus careening off the road and plunging in a final death dive over the edge in a nightmarish replay of "Thelma and Louise,"**  I suggested to Dawa the possibility of sitting on the roof with the luggage and perhaps the wiser locals.  At least I would have a "jumping" chance of escape! But he said it would be too "dangerous", so there I sat, with the bus following the serpentine road and me stuffed like a turkey in an oven waiting for the dooms day plunge.
 

** The movie "Thelma and Louise" ends with them plunging at high speed into an abyss

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