There would be no way for me to find my way without a guide. Few
Westerners travel these parts and people stared. I was in a time
warp and thrilled by it.
Pangkongma village is beautiful. It sits on a green shelf in a
pastoral setting at 9,000 feet. I am told it has a small
population of perhaps 500 people, although I only counted twenty
seven dwellings that could not possibly hold that many villagers.
Dawa’s ancestral house sits high above the village, with a
spectacular view of the mountains. If only they could be seen, for
as usual the view has been blocked by low lying clouds. The
twenty foot pole in front is still flying the narrow strip of
prayer flag, badly tattered, fluttering in the steady breeze
sending it’s silent prayers aloft.
No
one has lived in Dawa’s home for some time and it is in disrepair. It is an old brick, traditional two story, with one room per
story. The wooded shutters shut tight against the elements. The
first story is a real mess as it has been used for a potato and
feed storage. Dawa started a fire in the open pit fireplace on the
second level. He then went to the Buddhist shrine and cleaned and
polished the pictures (most of the family shrines that I noticed
in the Khumbu had within the collection of pictures one of the
Dalai Lama, their spiritual leader, and the King of Nepal). After
cleaning the candle holders, he lit the candles and prostrating
himself three times on the floor offered prayers to Buddha.
Except for the difficulty of getting here, this would be a
wonderful place to come and write, study, paint, read, meditate
for the summer months.
Dawa has thought that someday he might be able to use his house as
a commercial Tea House. The trouble is that it is off the
beaten path that most trekkers take and the rest fly directly
into Lukla to head into the Mera La or